Showing 5 reviews for Boss AR1500M
|Customer Review Summary for Boss AR1500M|
|March 2, 2013||Not a bad 100 watt amp to start your system with some caveats.||
15 of 27 people found the following review helpful:
imickey503 from Portland Oregon
For the price, this is a sweet amplifier. it has a small foot print. And actually, I like the screw down terminals. The name plate on the top is a little cheesy. If I can, I would just take the plastic name plate off the top of the amp. (I think it's plastic?) But the look and finish of the amp is really first rate. It seems to be built very well. I can't complain about its aesthetics. I have 2 of these amps and they are great for Music. They really do have great specs on them and make a great cheap monoblock amp that does great at full range since it is a class A/B amp.
Now here are some need to know info.
Boss rates this amp at 700RMS Well it does to that IF..
1. You have a 15.5V electrical system according to the Boss tech I spoke with. BTW, REALLY GREAT TECH SUPPORT PEOPLE who are honest.
2. You actually have a linear 2 ohm load that does not happen in the real world. Going lower then 1.7 the amps starts to heat up quick. It will drive a 1.3 ohm load for a very short period of time. But the output transistors don't seem to like to work that hard and heat up quick. One side gets REALLY hot. (right upper side of amp on the input side where the Bass control switch is hooked up. (3, 4 ohm sub-woofers in parallel.
3. During 2 ohm loads, this amp is fine in the horizontal position. It never gets hot to the touch in my set up playing dub step. Bass CD's that have nothing but very low content will make this amp warm to the touch, but nothing to bad in 50' weather. On hot days, You are going to need a fan or some air movement to keep it cold in the trunk of your car with 2 ohm loads. Mine is mounted on the seat back in a minivan. So no problems with heat so far.
To get the most out of this amp Get the Boss P126DVC and throw that in a very good ported box and you will be very happy with the amount of sound that you can get at such a low price. The specs say 96db on this woofer, take that as a ball park figure. Figure about 90 in the real world. I am sure Boss got this figure at its peak output efficiency. (Numbers sell after all)
You must give this AMP MIN 14.4 voltage. Don't even think about cheaping out on your installation of power. This is not an amp that does well if the power is not there. there is no real reserve capacity for this amps power supply. Take my advice, if you want to go cheap on amps, then you have to spend the money elsewhere.
I am able to get 14.4 stable on my amp with a 140 amp stock alternator by doing the big 3, and using large 1 gauge full copper wire for both ground and Positive leads and just a stock new battery in the car. Going to do a clamp test on the amps today, ( I have 2 of these in the back of the car. And I can tell you that these amps really like 2 ohms loads and sound best at that load under my system.
It does not have the "effortless Reserve" that better amps like the RF. or the Aura Amp that I have for testing. It just seems like it is missing the "Grunt" that better amps seem to have. However, with the 2 Quantum sub-woofers that I am using in a sealed box, they seem to put out plenty of volume on a 2 ohm load.
The report that these need the bass boost switch on is kind of true, but it makes it sound very stressed. It's best use is if you like to listen to music that just does not have much bass in the song that you are listening to.(Classical music) Otherwise, leave it off.
about 2 o'clock seems to be the best gain setting on the kn0ob for me. that way I can turn the remote switch to ten without audible distortion..
High level inputs worked great from the stock infinity sound system in my mini van when I installed it at first. I think it sounded more musical this way.
Bass control knob uses 6PC connectors. I was able to get a telephone splitter so I could just use one wire and knob for both amps in the back. You have to get one that has all 6 wires in them. Most only have 4.
This amp feels more like a real 100 watt amp. And guess what. It is.
After my clamp test, with settings on max and at the 2 o clock position for the gain with the bass control knob on max, I got the following readings on a sealed 1.25 cube sealed box with quantum sub-woofers rated at 250 RMS and at 4 ohms. I tested with voltage readings at the amps being about 14 volts under normal music, and under test tones and bass heavy music, I was seeing 13.8 and 13.5 with just one amp hooked up to a sub-woofer with the other amp being at idle with no load, and RCA input being disconnected.
Both the amps had time to warm up and were cool to the touch. and only moderately warm with ambient temps with the rear tailgate open were about 45' F. while taking the readings.
I used a cheap Harbor Freight Multimeter and Clap tester in the 20A range and measured both the positive and negative leads by the amp and next to the speaker. Wire gauge to the speaker was 12 gauge.
Clamp test results while car was idling.
The best I got was 4 amps with avg being about 3.58 Amps sustained, and 30 Volts AC with avg being about 27 at 13.8 avg System voltage. at 4 Ohms.
2 ohms under the same conditions were 7.59 Amps, and around 28 VAC being about my best sustainable numbers.
So if I did the math OK, This is a 108W amp at 4 ohms. And at 2 ohms the AT1500 does 211W running bother Sub-woofers in paralleled configuration.
This is far short of even the 300W prediction someone mentioned.
According to Boss tech I spoke with, the output of each amp is a little different. However, under my testing, both amps were only of by maybe 3 watts with both being carefully set the same as possible.
Also one of the amps seem to play music even without the Amp plugged in to the line in. I think it is defective as the other amp does not do this. After a power cycle, I think it went away for a bit. But all my wires are running up the same line so this may be why the cross talk goes in to the power and ground leads. To stress this, the other amp is dead silent. . I have a 120000 MFD cap on there to serve as a filter to clean up the DC, but somehow, the amp is playing music from the power, and grounds going to it. But still plays and tests great, so back to the store it goes for one that does not do this. This amp has been working for about 3 months now, and the other one is 2 days old. So time will tell if the other amp does the same thing after a while as well.
The Description here says to use 4 gauge wire. You could use 14 gauge power and ground wires (Extension cord type) and still not over stress the wire This amp pulls about ballpark 25 Amps at MAX load.
According to my math, a 15 amp fuse should do the job.
Problems I have faced so far has been the one amp getting a audio signal via the power wires, and playing it through to the speakers. Other then that, both amps seem to be working ok. The other amp does not do this.
If you really want my opinion about this amp and its best use. I would use it as a mono-block full range amp for each channel. 100 real watts to your front speaker set is more then enough headroom.
Also, I know it would invalidate the warranty, but I would remove that plastic boss logo from the top of the amp. The Titanium/ Gun Metal Gray finish is just beautiful to look at. The Large boss logo just ruins it.
As a bonus, it would aid in cooling to a very small degree.
As a side note, if you run multiple amps, you can control the gain from just one knob using a 6pc telephone adapter. My set up works just fine and is very musical at the 4 ohm load during normal balanced listening.
If you have your subs in a well insulated trunk, this amp just does not have the power to really provide you with what you need. Sonic has a great Stillwater Designs amp that puts out a real 500W RMS for around a Hundy. I would really recommend getting something something that puts out 500 RMS for sub-woofer use. Not that you want to shake the car, it just needs to have that headroom in a loud car environment and especially if you have your sub-woofers in the trunk. That way hot days won't be a problem.
Running a amplifier at it's limit is never a good idea in places with little in way of ventilation.
If you want to stay with the great 5 year warranty (on this amp anyways) get the biggest Boss amp in the series they sell, and remember, all these amps only put out 1/4 of what they say in an average installation and are very sensitive to voltage drop. A cap will not help that 8 gauge wire issue. On cheap amps like this, you need every single volt of power you can get to this amp otherwise, you are just wasting your money. If you are going to bother running wire, do it right and use a min of REAL AWG 4 gauge real copper for the run.
|March 19, 2015||Still going strong! after 2 years of moderate to heavy use.||
1 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
Mickey from Portland, OR
I am going to give this 200W RMS @ 2 ohm stable Boss RM1500 amplifier a 100% Thumbs up!
Itís kind of like the Harbor Freight of Amplifiers. You really get a lot of value with this amplifier, and itís built with plenty of safety in mind to deal with almost any situation from user error (More on this later)
Still sounds good, still puts out close to the same power, and runs very well on a single woofer without a hick up.
Volume control knob (remote Bass Boost) still works great! The finish/Aesthetics on the amp still looks wonderful!
Perfect for your starter system or entry-level car audio or for VERY mild power, high efficiency single sub-woofer systems. (More on this later)
Works BEST with a single DVC woofer wired @ 2-ohm loads. Was a perfect power match for the Boss CX-15 subwoofer granted you provide extra cooling. (More on this later)
LONG TERM 2015 WRAP UP.
After 2+ years of use, the First amp is still in good working order when driving a single 12-inch woofer AND HAS ZERO ISSUES when driving a single driver ~ 2-ohm woofer load.
After about 3 months of driving 2 boss audio CX-15 inch subwoofers, the output transistors are starting to give out. Most people will be running ported enclosures with this amp, so you may never see this problem but I thought I would bring it up.
This amp will do a 1.5-ohm load for VERY BRIEF stints. (At first) My sub box seems to have an impedance dip that draws more current then the amp is comfortable with at full tilt. Even at lower volumes, the amp does get very hot these days driving these 2 large woofers.
ďOverheat shutdown LED indicatorĒ (I.E. The Warranty Blaster!) Illuminates when driving both 15 inch sub-woofers after about 15-20 min at 60-70'F ambient temps.
1. Electronics giving up the ghost.
2. Thermal paste not doing its job anymore.
3. Extended time at bellow 12.5V operation caused significant stress to the DC to DC convertorÖ Yea that one.
So take my advice, Keep it running at 14V and you will never have any issues with this amp. But itís nice to know that this amp has some great protection circuitry built in. However, you can see it took its toll on the amp for running at its limits. But hey, it still works!
I started to get this when running the amp on battery power only for some time. This means that internal circuitry had to work harder to make power from 12.5v instead of 14.4, so that could be the reason why itís no longer performing like it use to.
So. Lesson to the wise.
1. Only use this amp when the car is running for maximum competent life.
2. Keep it very cool if you want some life out of it. Forced air-cooling is Mandatory for long-term high output operation at rated 211W output at 2 ohm operation.
3. Best to use with single 12" woofer of 2 ohms would be best. Or speakers that happen to be VERY sensitive ( 92 or higher would be a best bet with this kind of Amp)
4. Stay out of the sub 2 ohm area that is caused by box impedance drop (most of you will be using Ported boxes tuned at frequencies that it only rises impendence instead of dropping, so most of you will not have to worry about this last one.
I also had to reset my gain as well. it started to clip more so it seems that the output or DC to DC converter in this amp is starting to degrade after 2 years of use. I suspect the Capacitors are starting to go south so using this at its rated power is like running your engine on redline all the time and it's already due for a rebuild.
When the amp fails, I would not hesitate to buy another. And its been a very solid product. Minus One failed amp I bought. So as long as you get a good one, youíre in the money.
This is the kind of amp you test right out of the box. Do not wait till the return policy comes by. Like I said I had one that has some kind of crosstalk issue out of the box.
One thing I canít stress enough, this amp is not happy with crappy power. If you have a good stock electrical system, this amp is more than any can ask for with stock electrical system. Truth is that most stock car electrical systems only have about 20 amps sitting around in reserve from the alternator.
Even with all my Electrical system upgrades, Deep cycle battery in the back, Big three, and dedicated overkill for a 200W amplifier, I still could not maintain 13.5V when at idle when the bass hit, so n alternator upgrade should be mandatory for anyone looking to run a subwoofer.
The Power draw from this amp is about ~25 Amps at 13.5v and Max 30Amps at 12v Full tilt. About average for a Class A/B amp.
With amps of this price class, having stable Voltage is more important than adding an extra battery (current supply) since they function best at high voltage then high current. I actually got 3 more watts form this amp by disconnecting the rear deep cycle (Fully charged) and running the wires straight to the amp. The amplifier also seemed to run cooler, but I did not have my thermal gun in hand to verify this.
Overall, it has been so far a pleasing ownership and testing experience. And itís a great gateway amp to get you on your way to figure out the weak points in your system. I had a lot of fun testing this amp to see what it could do and the low entry price point makes it easy for anyone to get into car audio at a price point they can afford.
A big thanks to Boss Audio & a BIG BIG BIG thanks to Sonic!
|December 20, 2012||more like 800 watt amp||
13 of 27 people found the following review helpful:
Pineda from Victorville, CA
I bought this amp for a friend to power up 2 12" at 1ohm in a tahoe it does its job but i thought it would sound better for a MONO. Its also really small and tends to heat up fast. It might be because i had to use a Hi to low Converter because he still has the stock bose stereo.
|March 19, 2014||It might be overrated||
3 of 8 people found the following review helpful:
eduardo from elgin, TX
I hooked up 2 12-Hifonics HFX12D4 combimed rms up to 800 so as soon as I try turning it up they turn off the amp completely but other then that its good the amp can tell what it's able to handle
|August 11, 2013||Bang for the Buck||
6 of 14 people found the following review helpful:
Tonyjr31669 from Houston, TX
This amp was used for two kicker comp 12. Very surprising how well it pushed, even more surprising no heating problems. This was in a Chevy extended cab truck down firebox and produced very good overall tone and depth in the sub. I wouldn't recommend using any larger speakers. For this wattage it was ideal. Sonic Electronix does it again