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Sound Storm SSL F4.1200

1200W Max Force Series 4-Channel Amplifier with Bass Remote Level Control (SoundStorm F41200)

Discontinued
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This item has been discontinued

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  • Force Series 4-Channel Class A/B Amplifier
  • RMS Power Rating:
    • 4 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
  • Max power output: 1200 watts
    • 2 ohms: 300 watts x 4 chan.
    • Bridged, 4 ohms: 600 watts x 2 chan.
  • Bridgeable
  • Wired remote bass level control included
  • LED power/protect indicators
  • Protection (thermal, overload and speaker short)
  • Bass Boost (0-18 dB bass boost at 50 Hz)
  • Tri mode operation
  • 2/1 channel operation
  • Line and speaker-level inputs
  • Heavy duty aluminum alloy heatsink
  • Variable input gain control
  • Chrome-plated RCA level inputs
  • Chrome-plated screw terminals
  • Variable high-pass filter (200 Hz Fixed)
  • Variable low-pass filter (40-150 Hz)
  • Frequency response: 9-50,000 Hz
  • Damping Factor: 125
  • Dimensions: 13-1/16"L x 10"W x 2-7/16"H
  • 4-gauge power and ground wiring is required for installation. Contact us for information regarding a discount on select amplifier kits when purchased together with this amplifier.
  • 1-year Manufacturer's warranty

Power Specifications - Full Range Channels

RMS Power @ 4 ohms

The RMS power rating is the measure of continuous power that an amplifier can output, or a speaker can handle. It is the most accurate depiction of real, continuous power that the industry has so far.

If the final impedance of your speakers or subwoofers equals 4 ohms, this is how much power this amplifier will supply at that ohm level. The higher the RMS wattage, the more clean and loud your music will sound.

110 watts x 4 channels
Bridged RMS Power

Bridging refers to combining two channels on an amplifier to create one channel with double the voltage and an increased power output. A 2-channel amplifier will bridge down to 1-channel and a 4-channel amplifier can bridge to create 2-channels. An amplifier is most commonly bridged to drive a subwoofer.

Remember, once you bridge two channels down to one its final impedance will be 4 ohms unless otherwise specified. This rating lists the RMS power created once an amplifier is bridged.

300 watts x 2 channels
Peak Power Output
This form of power rating refers to the maximum amount of power an electronic device can handle or output in an instant without damage occurring. Often times this maximum is achieved during a brief musical burst, such as a drum accent, or low bass hit.

Some manufacturers display peak power ratings on the face of their products to increase the appeal to consumers. The RMS power rating is more accurate, and we recommend using it for product comparison.

600 watts x 2 channels

Amplifier Specifications

Amplifier Series
This designates the series of the amplifier. Many amps are available in a litany of different wattage and channel configurations, but maintain consistent features throughout the product line.
Amplifier Class

An amplifier increases the power of the signal being fed to it by taking energy from its power supply and matching the signal but increasing its amplitude. Amplifiers use many different methods for converting these electrical signals and have been categorized into classes.

Class A/B: Greater than 50% of the input signal is amplified while the other percentage is “off”. These amplifiers have a small amount of current flowing through the output transistors all the time which almost eliminates crossover distortion. Class A/B has great sound quality but is not as efficient as class D. These amps are most commonly used to drive speakers.

Class D: Also known as switching amplifiers, class D amps have output transistors that are completely turned “on” or “off”. This means that when the transistors are on, there is almost no voltage across them but when they are off there is significant voltage but no current flowing through it which makes these amplifiers very efficient at the cost of sound quality. These amps are most commonly used to drive subwoofers.

Other Classes: You may see classes such as GH, bD, X, FD, etc. by some manufactures. These amplifiers tend to be either class A/B, D or a hybrid of the two but with improvements to their designs that can make them more efficient or offer better sound quality.

AB
Number of Channels
Each channel on an amplifier will power one speaker using a positive and negative cable. There are various types of amplifiers, each designed to power a certain number of speakers. Monoblock amplifiers, also known as single channel, are designed to power one or more subwoofers. These amplifiers often have very high power ratings. On the other hand, multi-channel amplifiers power multiple speakers, usually at lower power ratings. 2-Channel and 4-Channel amplifiers can power car speakers or low powered subwoofers. Occasionally you might see a 5 or 6-channel amplifier that can power speakers and subwoofers at the same time. The most common setup is a monoblock amp to run subwoofers and a 4-channel amp to run door speakers. Check out our Knowledge Base for more information.
4
Total Peak Power Output
The total peak power output is measured as the wattage per channel multiplied by the number of channels, and is calculated at the lowest level of operating impedance.

It is measured during a brief musical burst, such as a sudden drum accent. Some manufacturers display peak power ratings on the face of their products to increase the appeal.

The RMS power rating is more accurate, and we recommend using it for product comparison.

1200 watts
Total RMS Power Output
Total RMS power is measured by multiplying RMS power per channel by the number of channels, and is calculated at the lowest level of operating impedance.

RMS power is the amount of continuous power, measured in watts, that an amplifier produces is called RMS power. The higher the RMS figure, the louder and cleaner your music sounds.

The RMS output figure is much more accurate than the peak rating when comparing products.

600 watts
Maximum Input Gauge Size
This is the largest gauge wire that will fit into the power and ground terminals of this device. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the wire is. For example, a 4 gauge wire is thicker than an 8 gauge wire and thus has higher current carrying capacity. Always do your best to get this size wire to reduce the risk of damage to your components.
4 AWG
Minimum Impedance Unbridged
The lowest impedance the amplifier will handle when it is not bridged.
2 ohms
Minimum Impedance Bridged
The lowest impedance the amplifier will handle when it is bridged.
4 ohms
THD at Rated RMS Power
The amount of change in harmonic content of the signal as it is amplified. A lower figure indicates less change and a more accurate amp. THD below 0.10% is inaudible.
01%
Speaker Level Inputs
Speaker level inputs are commonly referred to as high-level inputs and vice versa. This input type allows you to get your audio signal directly from the speaker wire in your vehicle, instead of using RCA cables. The advantage of this is factory integration, as most stock radios do not have RCA outputs to run amplifiers.
Yes
Preamp Outputs
Many amplifiers are equipped with RCA preamp outputs which pass the original music signal from the source to additional amplifiers. This is known as daisy chaining because the source connects to the first amp, and the first amp connects to the second amp, etc. The advantage to daisy chaining is you only need one 2-channel RCA cable to transfer the signal from the head-unit to the amplifier, and then one additional cable for each amp being daisy chained.
No
Built-in Crossover

A crossover is a type of filtering system that permits only certain frequencies to play. A Low-Pass (LP) crossover allows only frequencies below its setting to get through which is good in the case of some subwoofers. A High-Pass(HP) filter allows frequencies above its setting to pass through, this is normally used on speakers.

When a crossover is set to FULL it means no filtering is added and the full frequency spectrum is allowed through the amplifier. Filtering is important because feeding a speaker frequencies it cannot reproduce effectively creates distortion.

Low-pass (LP)
High-pass (HP)
Full (AP)
High-Pass Crossover Frequency
The high-pass crossover frequency can be a fixed crossover point or a variable crossover range. A variable high-pass crossover allows you to select a specific crossover point which allows frequencies above the set crossover point to pass, while making frequencies below the set point gently or harshly roll-off, depending on the steepness of the slope.

The steepness of the roll-off slope is measured in dB/octave and refers to the rate of attenuation (lowering of volume) outside their pass bands.

200 Hz
Low-Pass Crossover Frequency
The low-pass crossover frequency is typically used for subwoofers. It can be a fixed crossover point or a variable crossover range. A variable low-pass crossover allows you to select a specific crossover point which allows frequencies below the set crossover point to pass, while making frequencies above the set point gently or harshly roll-off, depending on the steepness of the slope.

The steepness of the roll-off slope is measured in dB/octave and refers to the rate of attenuation (lowering of volume) outside their pass bands.

40 - 150 Hz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio
This spec compares the strength of the signal to the level of background noise. A higher value indicates less background noise.
103 dB
Channel Separation
Also referred to as crosstalk. The amount of interference on one stereo channel caused by the leaking of the other stereo channel. The higher the rating in decibels (dB), the better the Channel Separation.
90 dB
Bass Boost
The objective of the bass boost is to get more kick out of your subwoofer. It is a circuit that emphasizes the lower frequencies at a given point. The bass boost should always be set first before setting the gain. This feature is known for destroying subwoofers and is commonly used incorrectly, so be cautious.
0 - 18 dB
Bass/Gain Remote
If the amp comes with a bass/gain remote you will be able to control the level of your bass from your dashboard. Typically bass remotes also include a 16-20 ft. wire for installation.
Yes
Fan Cooled
A great feature to have if an amp generates a large amount of heat. Cooling fans can help regulate the temperature to prevent the amp from overheating (burning).
No
Fuse Rating
The amperage and the number of fuse(s) an amp requires.
20A x 2 
Strappable
Some amplifiers can be "strapped" together in order to increase the output of a single audio channel. These amplifiers feature RCA preamp outputs, allowing you to pass the signal directly from one amp to the other to ensure consistency.
CEA-2006 Compliant
Amplifiers that have been tested to meet specific standards. When a car amplifier meets these standards, you can be sure that it will be able to produce the amount of power specified by the official CEA-2006 rating. Usually, these rating consist of the following items:
  • RMS Power
  • Signal-to-Noise Ratio

This rating applies to both external car amplifiers, as well as the amplifiers inside of in-dash stereos.

No
Sonic Certified Amplifier
Sonic Certified amplifiers have been tested by the experts at Sonic Electronix to meet or exceed the wattage ratings provided by the manufacturer. If this is marked as Yes, then you can trust the wattage ratings. If marked as No, then we have tested the amplifier and it did not meet the advertised wattage ratings. If marked as Not Tested, then the Sonic Electronix experts have not yet been able to test the amp.
Amp Bluetooth Connectivity
This feature will tell you if the amplifier has the capability to connect to a Bluetooth device.

Specials with this Item

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Warranty and Return Policy

Parts Warranty Duration
1 year
Labor Warranty Duration
1 year
Warranty Provider
Manufacturer

Summary of Customer Ratings & Reviews

Rating Distribution

5 Star
75%
4 Star
25%
3 Star
0%
2 Star
0%
1 Star
0%

Average Attribution Rating

Durability
4.8
Value
5.0
Features
4.8
Design
4.5
Usability
4.5
Daniel

Clarksville, tn

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability
Good Amp!

August 6, 2011

This is a really nice little amp that looks great and performs pretty well too. The only problem i have had is that it would overheat sometimes after heavy use, but i think thats cuz i have each channel sets bridged and pushin 600 to each of my 12" infinity subs and i didnt have it in a well circulated area, especially when its getting to like 105 degrees here! Most people use 4 channel amps for normal speakers, but i was lookin for a cheap but pretty powerful way to push my subs and this amp works like a charm! its really easy to fuse and looks great. you can't beat it for the price, especially since i got it for 80 bucks brand new! get this amp if your on a budget but you still want awesome sound a a good bit of power! btw, if you wanna know how well it pushes my subs, it shakes the hell out of my rearview mirror and from out side it vibrates the front doors of my car!

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Chris

Virginia Beach, VA

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability
Great Value

April 5, 2011

I purchased this 4 channel amplifier to upgrade my truck's audio system from stock. It currently drives four speakers in my extended cab F-150. The system has performed flawlessly to date, I now have great sound in my truck, of which myself and children really appreciate. this amp was well below other manufacturers cost and performs well. The only thing I can ding it on is it's size, wish it was a bit smaller as some of the connections jut out under the driver side seat and small feet tend to kick them, nothing that can't be remedied with a cover of some sort though.

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Gary

Garden Grove

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability
Follow-up Review...

October 31, 2009

Ok...finally got around to hooking-up the Channel 1/2 to the new Kenwood 6 x 9's in the front doors of my wife's XTERRA. (I CANNOT recommend enough these Kenwood ^ x 9's with the "ie" designation at the end of the model designation, the go almost as low as subwoofers!).

I was utilizing the Hi-Level inputs for both the 3/4 Channel Bridged to the Pioneer Premier 12" Shallow Mount Sub in a .65 cu. ft. custom box.... and also for the 6 x 9's.

But for the front doors... I had a BAD engine whine. Probably didn't have it when running just the Sub since I had those channels on the Low-Pass Filter setting anyway.

The only thing that made the engine whine go away for the front door channels was to no longer use the Hi-Level Input. Instead I used a PAC-SNI 35 Hi-to-Lo converter and hooked the front inputs into the low-level RCA inputs.

SIDE NOTES:
The shiny nice-looking mirrored chrome finish on both the input/output sides actually makes it much more difficult to inspect the settings on the sides when looking at the amp from a top view down at an angle. I found that sorta annoying during setup.

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Gary

Garden Grove, CA

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability
Holy Hoppin' Hamburgers BatMan!!!

September 21, 2009

A friend had given me their older used JL Audio PowerWedge enclosure with 2 12" subs in it for free. I had just finished doing my own vehicle, AND this box was too big for it anyway so I decided I'd some upgrading to da wifey's '07 Nissan Xterra as an early BDay gift.

I chose this amp because it could do her front doors @ 100+ RMS so that would work great for the amazing new Kenwood 6 x 9's I got from here... and I could also take the other 2-channels and bridge them for a sub. And the price is only a hair over $100 bucks so I figured why not?

Today I installed a Scosche 1.0 Farad capacitor with 4ga. then to Distr. Block down to 8ga. to the amp. (This left me the option of later on installing a monoblock amp if I felt this one didn't cut it on the bridged output to sub).

On the 1st test run the "Bass Boost" was on it's half-way setting and the input gain was set to around 1/2 way as a starting point.

O-M-G!!! It was hitting way way hard, too much so... almost blurring my vision. And it was very unbalanced in relation to the output of the car doors... especially since I have NOT got the front 6 x 9's hooked up to the amp yet.

I had to turn the bass boost off... and back down the input gain by quite a bit. But know it's perfect! Very balanced.... and if I turn her stock deck up past 25 (tops out at 32 I think) than that nice big boom comes back again! But at least now she'll be able to control it. I had the input gain just way too high those first few test runs, especially since the Bass Boost setting was in that mid-position right out of the box.

Now I'm sorta jealous of her system. And I'm rockin a brand-new single 2-ohm Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount in sealed enclosure built to recommended specs powered by a Blaupunkt THA1250 Monoblock Class D amp. Since her's is 2 12"s it better reproduces those lower lows in the sub-hits.

I was concerned before this install because the output of the 1 bridged channel was listed as a little lower in RMS compared to my Blaupunkt (which I used to test-run the JL PowerWedge to make sure it worked when I was given this sub, prior to bothering to order an amplifier for her car).

But make no mistake about it. Man it delivers the goods!

This amp is all you'd ever need in a car. 2-ch to power the fronts, 2-ch to power a sub, and let the rear doors just use stock power from headunit.

The only limiting factor with this amp is just it's footprint. In some cars (like my Explorer SportTrac) it'd be difficult to find a place to mount. But once you do, you'll be rewarded!

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Product Summary

Manufacturer

Model Number

F4.1200

UPC

791489110815

Weight

11.00lbs

Internal SKU

f41200

Internal Product ID

17628

Sonic Electronix Wiring Guide

Wiring Diagram Legend

Warning: The image depicted shows the resistance change when wiring multiple subwoofer terminals. Please refer to your subwoofer's owner's manual for the proper wiring of its terminals. Sonic Electronix, Inc. is not responsible for damage caused to your audio system or vehicle due to improper installation. Please call tech support at 1-877-289-7664 if you require additional assistance.

Product Name: Sound Storm SSL F4.1200