1200W Max Force Series 4-Channel Amplifier with Bass Remote Level Control (SoundStorm F41200)
Force Series 4-Channel Class A/B Amplifier • 110 Watts x 4 Chan @ 4 Ohms • 1200 Watts Max • Chrome-Plated RCA Level Inputs And Screw Terminals • LED Power and Protect Indicators • Line and speaker-level inputs
Learn more about the f41200Force Series 4-Channel Class A/B Amplifier • 110 Watts x 4 Chan @ 4 Ohms • 1200 Watts Max • Chrome-Plated RCA Level Inputs And Screw Terminals • LED Power and Protect Indicators • Line and speaker-level inputs
Internal Product ID:
17628
Good Amp!
This is a really nice little amp that looks great and performs pretty well too. The only problem i have had is that it would overheat sometimes after heavy use, but i think thats cuz i have each channel sets bridged and pushin 600 to each of my 12" infinity subs and i didnt have it in a well circulated area, especially when its getting to like 105 degrees here! Most people use 4 channel amps for normal speakers, but i was lookin for a cheap but pretty powerful way to push my subs and this amp works like a charm! its really easy to fuse and looks great. you can't beat it for the price, especially since i got it for 80 bucks brand new! get this amp if your on a budget but you still want awesome sound a a good bit of power! btw, if you wanna know how well it pushes my subs, it shakes the hell out of my rearview mirror and from out side it vibrates the front doors of my car!
8
found this helpful.Follow-up Review...
Ok...finally got around to hooking-up the Channel 1/2 to the new Kenwood 6 x 9's in the front doors of my wife's XTERRA. (I CANNOT recommend enough these Kenwood ^ x 9's with the "ie" designation at the end of the model designation, the go almost as low as subwoofers!).
I was utilizing the Hi-Level inputs for both the 3/4 Channel Bridged to the Pioneer Premier 12" Shallow Mount Sub in a .65 cu. ft. custom box.... and also for the 6 x 9's.
But for the front doors... I had a BAD engine whine. Probably didn't have it when running just the Sub since I had those channels on the Low-Pass Filter setting anyway.
The only thing that made the engine whine go away for the front door channels was to no longer use the Hi-Level Input. Instead I used a PAC-SNI 35 Hi-to-Lo converter and hooked the front inputs into the low-level RCA inputs.
SIDE NOTES:
The shiny nice-looking mirrored chrome finish on both the input/output sides actually makes it much more difficult to inspect the settings on the sides when looking at the amp from a top view down at an angle. I found that sorta annoying during setup.
6
found this helpful.Great Value
I purchased this 4 channel amplifier to upgrade my truck's audio system from stock. It currently drives four speakers in my extended cab F-150. The system has performed flawlessly to date, I now have great sound in my truck, of which myself and children really appreciate. this amp was well below other manufacturers cost and performs well. The only thing I can ding it on is it's size, wish it was a bit smaller as some of the connections jut out under the driver side seat and small feet tend to kick them, nothing that can't be remedied with a cover of some sort though.
4
found this helpful.Holy Hoppin' Hamburgers BatMan!!!
A friend had given me their older used JL Audio PowerWedge enclosure with 2 12" subs in it for free. I had just finished doing my own vehicle, AND this box was too big for it anyway so I decided I'd some upgrading to da wifey's '07 Nissan Xterra as an early BDay gift.
I chose this amp because it could do her front doors @ 100+ RMS so that would work great for the amazing new Kenwood 6 x 9's I got from here... and I could also take the other 2-channels and bridge them for a sub. And the price is only a hair over $100 bucks so I figured why not?
Today I installed a Scosche 1.0 Farad capacitor with 4ga. then to Distr. Block down to 8ga. to the amp. (This left me the option of later on installing a monoblock amp if I felt this one didn't cut it on the bridged output to sub).
On the 1st test run the "Bass Boost" was on it's half-way setting and the input gain was set to around 1/2 way as a starting point.
O-M-G!!! It was hitting way way hard, too much so... almost blurring my vision. And it was very unbalanced in relation to the output of the car doors... especially since I have NOT got the front 6 x 9's hooked up to the amp yet.
I had to turn the bass boost off... and back down the input gain by quite a bit. But know it's perfect! Very balanced.... and if I turn her stock deck up past 25 (tops out at 32 I think) than that nice big boom comes back again! But at least now she'll be able to control it. I had the input gain just way too high those first few test runs, especially since the Bass Boost setting was in that mid-position right out of the box.
Now I'm sorta jealous of her system. And I'm rockin a brand-new single 2-ohm Pioneer Premier 10" Shallow Mount in sealed enclosure built to recommended specs powered by a Blaupunkt THA1250 Monoblock Class D amp. Since her's is 2 12"s it better reproduces those lower lows in the sub-hits.
I was concerned before this install because the output of the 1 bridged channel was listed as a little lower in RMS compared to my Blaupunkt (which I used to test-run the JL PowerWedge to make sure it worked when I was given this sub, prior to bothering to order an amplifier for her car).
But make no mistake about it. Man it delivers the goods!
This amp is all you'd ever need in a car. 2-ch to power the fronts, 2-ch to power a sub, and let the rear doors just use stock power from headunit.
The only limiting factor with this amp is just it's footprint. In some cars (like my Explorer SportTrac) it'd be difficult to find a place to mount. But once you do, you'll be rewarded!
4
found this helpful.Best selling similar products