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Orion XTRPRO104

10" Dual 4 ohm XTR PRO Series Car Subwoofer

Discontinued
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This item has been discontinued

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  • 10" XTR PRO Dual 4 ohm Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 1000 watts
    • RMS: 500 watts
  • Polypropylene dust cap and paper cone is moisture and UV resistant
  • Nitrile-butadiene rubber surround enhances the linear excursion
  • Symmetrical tuned long-throw surround
  • Dual interlaced conex spider
  • Custom cast aluminum frame
  • Custom trim ring
  • Tinsel leads stitched and looped across spider
  • Venting in voice coil former is part of the enhanced voice coil cooling system
  • Advanced forced convection cooling system
  • Tri-cooling system
  • Copper wound voice coil on aluminum former
  • Sensitivity: 82 dB
  • Two large 48 oz. double stacked ceramic magnets (96 oz. total)
  • 1-year Sonic Electronix warranty

Subwoofer Specifications

Subwoofer Series
Each subwoofer manufactured is part of a series. This is the name of the subwoofer's series.
XTR Pro (Orion)
Subwoofer Size
Refers to the diameter of the subwoofer, measured in inches.
10"
Peak Power Handling
Peak power handling refers to the amount of power a speaker can handle during a brief musical burst. The RMS power range figure is a much more reliable rating for determining the speaker's power requirements. The Peak power handling specification is typically rated per speaker unless otherwise noted.
1000 watts
RMS Power Handling
The RMS power is the amount of power the speaker requires to operate safely and properly. RMS Power Handling refers to the amount of power a speaker can handle on a continuous basis. We recommend powering your speakers or subwoofer with 80%-120% of its recommended RMS rating. The RMS power handling specification is typically rated per speaker unless otherwise noted.
500 watts
Voice Coil(s)
Dual voice coil subs have more wiring flexibility than single voice coils subs; however, single voice coil subwoofers provide easier hookup options for wiring multiple subwoofers in parallel or series. You may also run a dual voice coil (DVC) sub in parallel, series, or combination. A quad voice coil has four voice coils and is equal to two dual voice coil subwoofers as far as wiring goes.
Dual
Impedance (Per Voice Coil)
The load value (in ohms) that the speakers present to the amplifier per voice coil - the amount of resistance to the current flow. This is a key specification as subs wired in parallel or low impedances can create problems with your amplifier and potentially void all warranties. We encourage you to ask our support department prior to purchase if you do not understand which impedance level will suit your application best.
4 ohms
Voice Coil Diameter
Diameter of voice coil, usually measured in inches.
Sensitivity
An efficiency or sensitivity rating tells you how effectively a speaker converts power into sound. The higher the number, the more efficient the speaker and the louder it will play with the same input power. An efficient speaker helps you maximize your available power. Most sensitivity ratings measure the speaker's output with 1 watt of input, 1 meter from the speaker. Some speakers' sensitivity is measured with 2.83 volts of input, instead of 1 watt.
 
Efficiency (1w/1m) is not an accurate indicator of a subwoofer's output capability and should not be used as a comparison to other speakers or subwoofers to determine which one is "louder".
82 dB
Xmax (millimeters)
Typically measured in millimeters, the Xmax value is the measure of a speaker cone's maximum excursion in one direction while maintaining a linear behavior.
17.82 mm
Subwoofer Design
This is the design of the subwoofer or the opening of the subwoofer enclosure. Each design has it's own benefits, whether it is a square, circle, or oval.

Round/Circle: This is the typical and common subwoofer design. They have a round cone and are a circle in design.

Square: These woofers are able to achieve a greater cone area in a smaller space. Because of the greater surface area, some square subwoofers will be louder than a round subwoofer of the same size.

Round / Circle
Main Cone Color
This is the color of the speaker's or subwoofer's cone.
Black
Woofer Composition
Lightweight woofer cone materials are essential for efficient operation. Poly cones produce exceptional sound and are sturdy against various changes in temperature. Paper cones are very efficient, and when treated for moisture resistance, will perform at a high level. Poly refers to polypropylene, which is thermoplastic or fibers that are polymers of propylene. IMPP refers to injection molded polypropylene, a commonly used process and material in speakers.
Reinforced Paper
Woofer Surround
A speakers surround is part of the suspension system. The surround protects the cone and prevents it from being displaced as it flexes out from the basket. It is usually made of a durable material like treated foam or rubber in order to withstand the strenuous job of producing bass frequencies.
Nitrile Butadiene Rubber (NBR)
Magnet Structure
Defines the overall structure of the subwoofers magnet.
Subwoofer Grille
Most subwoofers are able to accommodate a universal grille; however, some subs include a grille and others have a specific, optional grille available for purchase separately. If "yes", then the subwoofer includes a grille. If "optional (sold separately)" the matching grille will need to be purchased in addition to the sub.
No
Re-Cone Kit Available
Some higher end subwoofers have replaceable cone assemblies. In case of a blown woofer, a recone kit allows for a simple replacement, as opposed to purchasing an entire new subwoofer.
No

Recommended Enclosure Specifications

Recommended Enclosure Type
This is the recommended type of enclosure that the subwoofer should be installed into. Some subwoofers are specially designed for particular enclosures.

Sealed: These enclosures completely enclose the air inside the box. These boxes produce a tight bass.

Ported/Vented: These enclosures have a slot of air to escape from the box. The result is a sound that has more "boom".

Bandpass: These are a combination of both sealed and ported enclosures. They can be very efficient, but require tuning for the best response.

Ported / Vented
Sealed
Minimum Sealed Box Volume
This value indicates the minimum sealed box volume that the manufacturer recommends for the subwoofer. The volume is typically displayed in cubic feet.
.75 cubic feet
Optimum Sealed Box Volume
This value indicates the ideal sealed box volume that the manufacturer recommends for the subwoofer. The volume is typically displayed in cubic feet.
Maximum Sealed Box Volume
This value indicates the maximum sealed box volume that the manufacturer recommends for the subwoofer. The volume is typically displayed in cubic feet.
.75 cubic feet
Minimum Ported Box Volume
This value indicates the minimum ported box volume that the manufacturer recommends for the subwoofer. The volume is typically displayed in cubic feet.
.75 cubic feet
Optimum Ported Box Volume
This value indicates the ideal ported box volume that the manufacturer recommends for the subwoofer. The volume is typically displayed in cubic feet.
Maximum Ported Box Volume
This value indicates the maximum ported box volume that the manufacturer recommends for the subwoofer. The volume is typically displayed in cubic feet.
.75 cubic feet
Top-Mount Depth
The depth when installed on top of the mounting surface. Measured from the bottom of the speaker's magnet to the bottom of the mounting holes on the rim of the speaker.
5-9/10"
Cutout Diameter
The actual diameter of the hole you will need to cut out if you are creating a new mounting location for this speaker, or if you are mounting a subwoofer in a box.
9"
Shallow Mount Installation
This means that the subwoofer/speaker is designed to be installed in areas that do not have a lot of space. Shallow mount subwoofers are typically found under a seat or behind the seat in some trucks.

Shallow mount speakers will typically have a mounting depth of 2" or less, while shallow mount subwoofers will typically have a mounting depth of 3" or less.

No

Electromechanical Parameters

Free-Air Resonance (Fs)
The free-air resonance frequency of the subwoofer, measured in Hz. At this frequency the weight of the moving parts is perfectly balanced with the subwoofers suspension system.
Equivalent Compliance (Vas)
This is the amount of air that has the same stiffness as the subwoofers suspension. The greater the rating, the lower the stiffness and larger recommended enclosure. It is measured in Liters.
Total Speaker Q Value (Qts)
This is the subwoofers relative damping (Q) at the resonance frequency (Fs), including all dimensionless losses. Essentially, a high Qts value (closer to 1.0) means the subwoofer is great for sealed enclosures and a low Qts value (closer to 0) means the woofer is great in vented enclosures. A Qts of around 0.45 means the woofer will work decently in either enclosure type.
Electrical Q Value (Qes)
The subwoofers relative damping (Q) at the resonance frequency (Fs), including electrical losses. Also called the mechanical damping of the subwoofer. The unitless measurement usually varies from 0.5 10.
Electrical Resistance of Voice Coil (Re)
Amount of DC resistance of the subwoofer when measured with an ohm meter. Typically, this will read less than the impedance rating of the subwoofer.
Mechanical Q Value (Qms)
This is the subwoofers relative damping (Q) at the resonance frequency (Fs), including mechanical losses. Also called the mechanical damping of the subwoofer. This unitless measurement usually varies from 0.5 10.
Efficiency Bandwidth Product (EBP)
This number represents the trade off between having an efficient woofer and one with a wide bandwidth. To calculate this number, take the Fs and divide it by the Qes. If the number is below 50, the woofer is designed for a sealed enclosure only. If it's between 50-100 it can be used in either. Lastly, if it's greater than 100 it's designed for vented enclosures.

Specials with this Item

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Warranty and Return Policy

Parts Warranty Duration
1 year
Labor Warranty Duration
1 year
Warranty Provider
Manufacturer

Summary of Customer Ratings & Reviews

Rating Distribution

5 Star
100%
4 Star
0%
3 Star
0%
2 Star
0%
1 Star
0%

Average Attribution Rating

Durability
5.0
Value
5.0
Features
4.9
Design
4.9
Usability
5.0

c

tennessee

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

great buy

October 2, 2010

I bought one of these the other day. I have a orion cobalt 600 amp running it. It sounds great, it hits very hard. I would highly recommend this sub.

4 of 4 found this helpful

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Tyler

Chattanooga, TN

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

These subs POUND!!

April 30, 2010

I've owned these subs for about a week now and they freaking pound! Explosive tight over the top bass that flexes glass and the frame of my toyota celica. The magnet is almost as big and the freaking sub, and each sub weighs around 24 lbs. I HIGHLY recommend them.

4 of 4 found this helpful

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Austin

taft, CA

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

THESE THINGS SLAM!!!!

January 11, 2012

For the price i was blown away by how powerful these things are. Not even broke in yet and these things are already awesome. They take a little while to break in. I have two of them in separate boxes that i got from Sonic and they are powered by a Lanzar Max 2000 watt 2 channel amp that i also got from Sonic and it is a great combo. I would reccomend these to anyone. If you cant afford the orion HCCA like me then this is the best sub u can get. THESE SUBS SLAM!!!!

2 of 2 found this helpful

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Jason

GraftonGrafton, WI

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

Great clean power hungry sub

July 30, 2012

I bought 4 of these for 2 separate projects. I built 2 standalone sealed enclosures, at roughly .83 ft^3 per sub, slanted face box , with 3/4 MDF. I have the subs driven by a Hifonics 1800.1d amp. I can drive the speakers extremely hard, and they seem like they could take more. Sound is clean, and for 10's they hit pretty decent, I guess I would expect that for the excursion they have. The other box I made was a bassreflex setup. Subs are not separated, and I made one port at 14 in^3 for the 2, It's roughly 40Hz with the box volume around 1.7 ft^3. The box is louder than the sealed setup I did, and I have the same amp driving these also. The sealed box definitely sounds better, and I would love to see what they do in a 4th order bandpass... might be my next project. Great subs, I definitely recommend. I have a history of using Alumapro's, or Kicker Solo, but I definitely like the sound of these. They aren't the most efficient speaker out there, and if you want to feel your heart skip look elsewhere.

0 of 0 found this helpful

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Taylor

myrtle beach SC

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

AWESOME!

July 5, 2012

Best speaker I've had and I've owned a lot of subs. No cons? All pros! I have them in a Z71 now a 350Z. My mirros fall off of every vehicle. Extremely sweet subs.

0 of 0 found this helpful

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jesse

aransas pass, TX

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

slams

June 10, 2012

A whole lot of good solid bass for the bucks.

0 of 0 found this helpful

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Ing_amaya

San Diego, CA

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

Orion Woofers, good Sound expend less, better JL

April 29, 2012

Great sound, I changed two 10" JL W6 to 2 Orion XTRPRO104, sound better, expend less money, I recommend them to you.

0 of 0 found this helpful

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speedbump

san angelo, tx

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

great subs

February 28, 2012

I put two of these in my '09 F-450 and they by far exceeded my expectations. Great low frequency response and all around strong performance.

0 of 0 found this helpful

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orion 4 life now

poundtown

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

amazing sound quality

February 28, 2012

These things pound hard but most importantly they bump clean. SPL is like nothing without sq. I've always had JL Audio until my w3v3 blew up in a week and these sound just as good if not better great buy from Sonic. DVC makes it easier to get the high wattage to these speakers unlike svc. Like JL's these are amazing subs they look so pretty out of the box the picture doesn't do it justice. I have a hifonics 1000 watt monoblock awesome set up.

0 of 0 found this helpful

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Marty

Claremore-Tulsa, Ok

Overall
Durability
Value
Features
Design
Usability

Orion XTR PR

April 7, 2011

I have to say, in 15 years I've never owned or been more impressed with a more effecient, thunder pounding single 10" woofer. I'm 30 and at age 15 I caught the fever for bass and sound systems! Been installing off and on since. This M.F. is by far the baddest 10" ever. 15 years of bassing have caused hearing impairment in my right ear and I'm never happy and always wanting more. I have this in a band pass hooked up to an AlPINE 1000 watt 5 channel All mids and highs are ripping and that leaves me a monoblock 1 ohm stable subwoofer channel with the hardest pushing 300 watts. Yeah 300 watts, bridged, run in parrallel on a woofer with 500RMS and 1000MAX in a bandpass box in my trunk, (sealed) not a hatch back and I had to turn down the gain. It is the perfect balancde. 1.) for hard hitting, durable, consistant, low ohm, tough constructrion and over all handling - it's tough to beat ORION and they have been that way for over 15 years, same with the amps. I'm a huge fan. Also, for you newbies, looking for top notch amps and woofer I highly reccoment Alpine amps, and especially the Type R (SWR) Subwoofer. By the way Alpineusa.com just released their newest woofer! Yes get this - 8" type R woofer. AMEN. The magnet is dang near as large and roung as the rim and cone. But I have to say I love Alpine and JL Audio and Fosgate more then any other brands out their, I have a feeling this Orion is going to be sufficient enough to outlast my ability to have hard hitting bass!! Another reccommendations to new commers, JL Audio also has superior subs and nop notch amps. But for the price difference ALPINE all the way or ORION - both of which have been around over 20 years so you know they've mastered their design. Also, good T-line subwoofer boxes (Transmission Line) they can make two 6" subwoofers boom like 12's. It's the basic use of channeling base accumulation for lower harder hitting base, very similar to how bose does it. I hear one 8" Fosgate in a T-Line Box and it sounded atleas like two 10"s atleast. I think I'm going to build a T-Line for my Orion and make it sound like two 12's. One thing I can sound is even at low volume this woofer puts out a sound the makes you know and feel that if you were to crank it up or add wattage that it will do some damage. I related it to a deep thunder soound. I bought from my friend because it blew out his back wind shield! Yeah this one ORION 10" XTR PR in a ported box! Everyone has there opinions about sealed vs ported or vented boxes. I've had both and sealed boxes never seemed to allow the clean, low thunderbass I like. Sealed to me allways just seems like, bang bang bass with a lot of extra constant base, but Im an advocate of ported because they can be tuned to perfection and in general vented because they allow and good low natural clean air flow kind of base. Ported or Vented is always my rule of thumbs, I feel like you can get more our of you woofer regardless of brand or size. Cardinal rules: makes sure ever dimension is exact, especially diameter and length of port and seal the s*** out of that box! an air leak the size of a screew how can cause a huge difference! Your quality of amp and sub are only as good as you quality of box. It is detrimental to have right dimensions. Dont go to the audio store and buy a vented box for two 10"s and asume proper. Always check the required cubic inches and air space, because if you get those exact, you get the most effecient sound, no distortion and you subs will last longer. Rule 1: always allow a good week or two to break in the woofer like a new pair of shoes. I do this be puting in a base cd and day one turn the volume to 2, a day or two later turn volume to 4 and so on. If you anything like me your gonna want to drop them in and bass it up right away. All you goin to do is blow them. Did it many times when i was younger and ALWAYS allow atleast 24hr's for cylicone to dry. Set it up in front of a fan or somthing. I've always prefered clear cylicon and for extra seal lay a line of cylicon or wood glue when assembling the box and always predril the screw holes to avoid splitting the wood, that's the professional way. Rule 2: The only wood you should use to construct sub boxes is 3/4 partical board or 5/8 MDF Board. Professionals and my self refuse to use any thing less then 5/8 MDF board, it's grade A wood for woofers. Now if you're going to hook up one little 8" woofer just to have a little extra base and aren't looking for some good heave bumps, just use 3/4 Partical. Rule 3); amplifier your dang mids and highs. Amps come built now with built in croossovers. Nothing sounds worse the hard hitting bass and your mids and highs distorting because your 50x4 head unit is not giving them the power they need. Also amping your mids allows you the mos hertz control and gains and ability to eliminate base. Wiring you tweets on your head unit is gonna sound terrible unless you have bass blocking capacitors in line. But still it's always gone give you the cleanest, strongets, ear piercing mids and highs by amplifing your mids and higs. they will las longer too. Trying to crank volume on a 61/2 to obtain hard bass in the back is bad balance and tunning. You can only give it 50 watts and it has RMS of 80 or hundred with a max of 180 then your gona wear it out and tear its up. Thats like having a Premium Competion Woofer that has an RMS of 800 and max of 1400 and getting a cheap roadmaster or VR3 100 watt amp. Then cranking up the bass to to max and then the volume to get it to bump. It's crap and will just distort and tear them up. If your going to do it, do it right. In fifteen years I've gotten sick of two amps and capacitors so I got the Alpine 1000 watt with the five channels. It's so effecient that I don't need a Farad Capacitor, lights don't dim etc. Also, if you don't know, and you have a Class D, high powered amp and you're wanting to have pounding bass, please get yourself a Farad Capacitor. Say your running a 1000wt to two 10"s and like to run it loud and hard, get a 1 or 1.5 or even 2 Farad Capacitor. It's like have an extra battery. Imagine it like this, you have a 1000 watt hooked up to two high powered 10"s, well though your remote wire to the amp, your head unit is gonna tell your amp to push the woofers to a certain height. Your woofers are high powered and the demand more power then the 1000 watt so basically they suck out all the wattage from the amp and basically start drowning your amp and thats why lights dim and flicker because you amp is struggling and trying to pull wattage and voltage from you other electrical 12volt sources. with the right size Cap, it stores that extra bass and is directrly wired to you amp, so when it sensed that you amp is struggling it shoot's in the extra voltage to the amp to give it what it needs to perform. I found a 2.2 Farad Bulldog capacitor on ebay for 28 dollars. You don't need to go to car toys or best buy or whereever and get Fosgate or Tsunami expensive name brand Caps, they all searve the same purpose. To keep you from frying your amp, battery and alternator. plus it makes for cleaning, better and more consistent hard hittng base. That's why it's important to get an amp that is atleast strong enough to handle the max wattage handling by the woofer. When you bridge, run in series or parrallel you need an amp capable or reaching the max at times, not just one to cover the RMS. Also, when you bridge your woofer, run parrallel or in series you are lowering you ohms. I have a 10" 4 ohm ORION woofer than after running the dual voice coils in parralle or series it's going to drop from 4ohms to 2ohms or maybe lower. So when choosing an amp make sure that if you plan on bridging woofers that the amp is 2 ohm stable. For instance you buy two 2 ohm woofers and bridge and wire them for maximum power make sure you buy and amp that is atleast 1 ohm stable, there are even .5ohm stable amps. First, of all, always bridge your amp, if not you wasted your money and the subs will sound like hell and only put out about half off the wattage rating of the amp. Waisted of time. Bridge them!!! Always, and keep your hertz low based of specifications based on woofer to keep it low and smooth, the higher the hertz on you gain the more levels of treble and bass its going to pull through and you'll good a lot of junk bass. It'l seem they are hitting harder but they are just picking up more base levels, highs and lows, and it wont sound as clean. Tune by ear for best sound and always makes sure your mids and highs are equal to the bass output. You ever hear those guys drive by with ponding bass and rattling trunks and all you hear is scratching distorted trebble? THat's because they haven't got enought power to the mids and highs, or have crap mids and highs. Tha'ts why it's important to have equal tuning between your mids/highs and bass. Make Equal! For help google and research, ways to wire your speakers and amps for max output, and learn about how wiring and ohms play a huge factor in your output. You may have a $2,000 system right now that isn't what you thought or you think its sounds good but through research or wiring scheems and bridging and lower ohms you might find that you $2,000 decent system could be capable of competition. Don't forget to look on ebay, carstereoonline.com, nextag, and sonicexlectronics.com for the best deals on caps. Reasearch cubic footage and getting the exact dimensions for your woofers, ohms and reasearch you poducts to determine if they are stable to handle lower ohms or capable of being wired in a certain way before you do it or you'll have a fried system. Always research and know your stuff before you make changes. Thuroughness and knowledge and research are gona give you the best system and maximization of your system and money's worth!! Audio systems are my biggest passion in life so I'd love to give advise and help others. Too bad placed don't hire just consultants. But ORION Subs and AMPs are and have always been 5 Star. That doesn't mean you can just by the cheapest Orion product and expect it to be awesome, you get what you pay for! Check your specs, one or two voice coils, one or two spiders, one or two magnets, what kind of exursion they can put out and the impedence: 2-4-8ohms and RMS and Max watt handling and check all the same for the amp or ask profession whick amp would do the best job with the woofer. Google "Big three wiring upgrde" it will help. Unless you're running a small little 150watt amp for boost you mids never use any wire guage smaller then 4 guage. I use 4 guage. 2 guage and 0 guage are the best way to go be they are expensive and hard to wire into amp and expisically hide that kind of wire. Also, i you have a 4 guuge power wire make dang sure you also have 4 guage ground wire. I even have 4 guage cable as my speaker wire. That isn't really a must. but have consistent guuge wiring throughout allways for smoothest flow of watts and voltage. I gurantee you if you have 2 guage power wire to hihg powered amp and 16 gugage speaker wire to your high powered woofers, one, wihing 5 minutes of hard pushing base your amp with over heat and go into protection mode. and you're not gonna get the best potential out of your sub base out put! I you buy a Tsunami Chrome terminal connecter for you 12volt car battery and your running 2 guage wire, you need to also hook up 2 guage to you negative terminal, and 2 guage wire to your alternator on theres a third wire on the positvie terminal that needs to be same guage. That's basically thats part of you big three wiring upgrade! Also, before you pass you power cable though your fire wall make sure you have have a fuse holder and fused wired in. If 2 guage wiring to a high powered amp you might consider a 60 amp fuse or 80. Most all amps now also come with two built in 30 amp fuses. That's a lot of voltage and wattage, don't risk it bc it won't take much to fry your amp. Better safe then sorry. Before you hook up power wire to amp disconnect fuse to avoid frying anything. Hook up power wire first, and ground 2cnd. Or just disconnect the negative terminal on you batter and basically you will have not electric power anywhere in your car. That's always the wisest way. First rule of installation disconnect negative on battery or both. Also when shoping for an amp just to push some some high powered subs always look for and try to buy MONOBLOCK, CLASS D AMPS. There made to handle all that heat and sta cool and still run effeciently! I give the ORION XTR PR 10" Sub a 5 star rating. I give ORION all together 5 stars unless you just buy they cheapest they have to offer. Alpine, Fosgage, Kicker, Orion, Soundstream and make great subs and amps. Mids and Highs you can never go wrong with MB Quart, Boston Acoustic or Polk Audio. I prefer Boston Acoustice! Those three brands also make amps and subs but I've never dealt with them so I can attest to their performance! Marty P.S. Don't underestimate Sony X-Plod Products, they've come a long way and I just got rid of to Sony 10's and they were hiting 106DB on a 1000 sony amp. Also, for the price Dual brand woofer and amps are very impressive and powerful. I owned a Dual 10 in a Dual Bandpass Box and it ripped that bass. Just couldn't withstand the power and eventually blew. But they do put out and if you want a good hard hitting system for cheap, get Dual. Remember it's all about the dimensions and specs. Study up, do your home work and research before you buy anything. Professional opinions and suggestions are nice but do you own home work and learn for yourself too!

8 of 18 found this helpful

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Accessory Tools and Products

Accessories added

Single 10" Subwoofer Angled Truck or Hatchback Box Enclosure

CARB Compliant, 5/8" MDF Shallow Sub Enclosure Lined with Polyfil.

Your Price $34.99

Single 10" Sealed MDF Subwoofer Enclosure

10-inch Sealed Car Sub Box Made with 3/4" MDF and lined w/ Polyfil.

Your Price $34.99

NVX 25 ft. of True Spec 12 Gauge Speaker Wire

100% OFC wire with EnvyFlex metallic jacket insulates and protects against damage from extreme conditions.

Your Price $39.99

25 ft. of Streetwires 12 Gauge Speaker Cable

You'll need speaker wire to hook up that new subwoofer!

Your Price $44.95

Belva 23 ft. of 12 Gauge Speaker Wire

Ultra-flexible PVC blended jacket for easy installation.

Your Price $14.99

20 Square Feet of Sound Dampening Material

NVX Sound dampening is thicker than competitors, eliminates rattles and gives you bigger bass!

Your Price $59.99

Dynamat Sound Dampening Trunk Kit

Did you know sound dampening will reduce those annoying rattles and even increase your SPL?

Your Price $109.95

Stinger Sound Dampening Trunk Kit

Stinger's Roadkill sound dampening series is sure to kill unwanted road noise and rattles! Enough sound dampening for your whole trunk!

Your Price $69.99

12 oz. Can of Adhesive Spray

Spray adhesive used for adhering carpet to subwoofer boxes without bubbles.

Your Price $6.99

Spring Post Terminal Cup

Makes adding a spring post terminal to an enclosure simple! Banana clip ready!

Your Price $3.99

40" x 15 Ft Piece of Premium Un-Backed Automotive Trim Carpet

Durable design for long life-span, available in many colors and shades.

Your Price $39.99

Gold Plated Dual Terminal Banana Plug Connector

Enables an expandable, secure connection accepting up to 8 gauge wire.

Your Price $3.99

Car Stereo and Speaker Installation Tool Kit

Includes Test Light, Crimp/Splice Tool, Multi-bit Screwdriver and more.

Your Price $12.99

Xscorpion 9-Piece Nylon Plastic Pry and Chisel Tool Set

Easily removes dash/trims, door clips, panels and pins, rubber grommets and vehicle emblems.

Your Price $14.99

Cordless Multi-Functional Heat Tool Soldering Iron Kit

Continuous working lock allows you to work without holding down trigger.

Your Price $79.99

4 Ft of 1/4" Thick Black Heat Shrink Tubing

Provides abrasion resistance and added protection for your cables.

Your Price $3.99

2" Universal, Professional Heavy Duty Roller for Sound Damping/Dampening

Universal rubber roller to make it easy to install sound dampening.

Your Price $7.99

1mm All Purpose Solder

Solder is all purpose for use on most projects where solder is needed.

Your Price $8.99

Universal 10" Subwoofer Grille

Keep your subwoofer safe from accidental damages with this amazing grill.

Your Price $13.99

10" Protective Waffle Subwoofer Grille

Keep your subwoofer looking amazing while keeping it safe.

Your Price $4.99

Scosche SPL Meter

Monitor the noise level of your new car audio system with this SPL meter measuring from 60-135 dB.

Your Price $21.99

AutoSound 2000 CD-101

Low frequency test CD

Your Price $11.99

Impedance Meter / Signal Generator

Easy to locate tuning frequencies of passive radiators and ported enclosures

Your Price $299.99

1 Orion XTRPRO104 Subwoofer

Mono Amp

2 Channel Amp - Bridged

2 Orion XTRPRO104 Subwoofers

Mono Amp

Mono Amp - Option 1

2 Channel Amp

2 Channel Amp - Bridged

4 Channel Amp - Bridged

3 Orion XTRPRO104 Subwoofers

Mono Amp

4 Channel Amp

4 Orion XTRPRO104 Subwoofers

Mono Amp

2 Channel Amp

2 Channel Amp - Bridged

4 Channel Amp

Product Summary

Manufacturer

Model Number

XTRPRO104

UPC

093207061400

Weight

20.50lbs

Internal SKU

xtrpro104

Internal Product ID

20885

Sonic Electronix Wiring Guide

Wiring Diagram Legend

Warning: The image depicted shows the resistance change when wiring multiple subwoofer terminals. Please refer to your subwoofer's owner's manual for the proper wiring of its terminals. Sonic Electronix, Inc. is not responsible for damage caused to your audio system or vehicle due to improper installation. Please call tech support at 1-877-289-7664 if you require additional assistance.

Product Name: Orion XTRPRO104